The Diary of the Brooke’s Blooms Kokoda Trail 2023
The Kokoda Trail: a formidable challenge that pushes the limits of endurance, resilience, and determination. Nestled deep within the dense jungles of Papua New Guinea, this iconic trail holds a special place in the hearts of adventurers and history enthusiasts alike. It is a path that demands respect, testing both the physical and mental fortitude of those who dare to traverse its rugged terrain.
In this blog, we embark on a remarkable journey, sharing the firsthand accounts of a dedicated team of hikers as they take on the Kokoda Trail. Each day brings its own set of trials and triumphs, weaving a tapestry of raw emotions, breathtaking landscapes, and unyielding camaraderie. From the first steps to the final summit, we delve into the gritty details of their experiences, capturing the essence of this extraordinary adventure.
As we venture into the untamed wilderness, be prepared to witness the rollercoaster of emotions, the sweat-soaked struggles, and the profound personal growth that accompanies such a challenging undertaking. Through the eyes of our team members, we will intimately explore the beauty and brutality of the Kokoda Trail, highlighting the transformative power that lies within the embrace of nature's most unforgiving landscapes.
So, fasten your backpacks, lace up your hiking boots, and join us on this unforgettable expedition. Together, we will navigate the treacherous trails, dig deep into our reserves of resilience, and emerge forever changed on the other side. The Kokoda Trail beckons, and the tales we shall share will captivate your imagination, inspire your own adventurous spirit, and ignite a longing for the untamed wilderness.
Day 1 – Saturday 20th May
And we're off! Buffet breakfast, just had fruit. Good pawpaw. Jumped into a small plane on our way to Popondetta. Nervous, excited to finally be here. Tiny airport. Brooke and a couple others didn't receive their Kina (PNG currency) they ordered, great start.
Into the back of an open truck to get supplies from Popondetta. It's so rough, everyone just hangs out in the street. Through villages of people waving to us the whole way, kids are so happy to see us. Drive seemed to take forever. Start of the track was fairly flat the first half. Stopped at a village to fill bottles up. Then a steep climb into our first camp. Only 1.5hrs. I felt pretty good but it's only the first day and that was short compared to what's to come. Set tent up, Brooke struggling with camping and roughing it. Good dinner, bed by 7pm. Body feels good. No rain.
Love, Bec
Day 2 – Sunday 21st May
Sleeping in Alola tonight
Was an emotional day
Waking up in my tent
I still haven’t gone to the toilet
We have lost our Australian guide
Johnny, our head PNG guide, has taken lead
We set day off in some of the thickest jungle I have even seen
I can’t imagine fighting a war through these hills
It’s a goat track
The vegetation touch each other either side of the path and it’s constant mud and water
My porter Illowa is so kind and gentle
We chatted lots today
He is a mad Broncos supporter and knows every player, every premiership we have won
State of Origin is next week and his hopes to get day off to watch it
He said, the towns paint their face maroon or blue
He speaks great English and I have been teaching him about the names of the plants
The first place we stopped I bought him coke and I got fresh bananas
We gave the kids some footballs at every village
This place is a dream
Tom described it like Avatar
We stopped at Isurava for lunch and learned of the old battle field
The emotion got the better of me
So many people died in this valley
The Australian Government has spent a heap of money and made a war memorial here
It’s very sad, but beautiful
We walked for about 12 hours today
Virtually uphill the entire way
Making camp was a relief
But I’m surprised I’m feeling good
I’m sleeping in the hut tonight with all the crew
Team is good
Bec killing it with her pack
Herb out front
Tom is good and loving it, but definitely out of his comfort zone
Joshy just going with the flow
Moo (Mat) loving life
Moo is sleeping next to me
The crew sang for us tonight, it was special
Now chatting nonsense with everyone in our hut
No one can believe that Herb rides 150km a day on his bike
Moo can’t stop laughing
Love, Brooke
Day 3 – Monday 22nd May
Set off from Alola in the morning. Porters had been partying all night off the betel nut. They all reckoned this would be the hardest day so I was expecting the worst. Straight into a steep descent and this is when I first started really feeling it in my knees.
First river crossing and then we crossed over a sketchy bridge to morning tea. Twisties, Fanta and bananas. Big climb heading to lunch today which was not as bad as I expected.
Final section heading to camp was another muddy climb. Brooke starts rapping Eminem. Started raining as we got close, Herb and I stopped being cautious with our steps and just sent it down the muddy path that lead to camp.
Templetons One crossing is camp tonight - a few huts nestled beside a roaring river. Nobody was going for tents tonight. Everybody rushed into the huts to claim prime sleeping positions. Hung the clothes up even though nothing was gonna dry.
Freezing cold water - took me about half an hour to fully get in and ended just sitting in the river for another 30 minutes. Sleeping in a hut that the river flows under.
Tom is eating all his lollies. Water is so loud; I’m gonna need my ear plugs tonight. This was my favourite day. Something about sitting in a river while it’s pouring down in the middle of the jungle really did it for me. I love it.
Love, Josh
Day 4 – Tuesday 23rd May
Had a sleep in this morning and up at 5am. We packed our sleeping arrangements up and got into breakfast - pancakes and hot water for a drink. We started our trek at 6:30am, walking over a timber log bridge and up we went for a killer of a hill. We got to our first rest stop and heard the helicopter land and our new Australian guide was not far behind. We all met Bruce with a small chat before we left for what I would say a cruisey day walking through some thick forest.
Got to our second stop which was a massive open grass field. The views were stunning. Then off we went to our lunch stop. The porters played some football which they loved. After that we walked through some foggy forests.
After a couple hours we went down some slippery slopes - my porter holding my bag the whole way down and laughing on each slip. We made it to our night camp with the village singing us a welcoming song and giving us all a flower necklace, which was a wonderful gesture.
We set up camp and got ourselves sorted for the night. Pork stew with mash potato for dinner. I didn’t eat the potato. Desert was a special warm chocolate bananas and Tim Tams.
We set some rules up for the remaining days of the trail with fines for falls, putting bags on prior to them telling us and a couple more. I got one fine for a fall (3 Kina).
Love, Mat
Day 5 – Wednesday 24th May
Kagi to Menari
Woken up by roosters at around 4am.
At around 5am the kids started singing their everyday song before the sun was even up!
Having too much fun - THRIVING!
Today we climb Mission Ridge and Brigade Hill. Let’s go!
We kicked off at 6:30am with the famous war cry and it was straight on uphill from there. As we crested the summit, we headed down a slippery stoned trail with streaming water to a river crossing. These narrow and steep trails were made more difficult by the fact that they were along cliff faces; one wrong move and “see ya later!”.
Everything is wet. Everything stinks. Everyone is smiling. Yeah! Can’t break us! We were then welcomed by an airfield strip before entering Menrai. After we settled in, we gifted rugby balls, colouring books and beanies to the local kids. Of course, we couldn’t leave and say goodnight without playing a final match of touch. Well, I thought it was touch until Josh decided to tackle me. Another day, reminding me how happy you can be with absolutely nothing by your side!
Love, Herb
Day 6 – Thursday 25th May
What a day again. Every day just keeps delivering something new. Feeling really good today after a tough few days here, and feeling like I got a second wind today. Was talking to Katie on my own in the thick mud today while I was struggling.
Pushed myself like crazy to get up the top of the group and keep up with Herb, but he just doesn’t stop! I kept up for 5 or 6 of the false peaks but then lost him. Never met someone like him who is so mentally driven. It’s very cool to see. He can be a professional if he stays focused.
Kept pushing through the leg pain - didn’t stop climbing and climbing and climbing. Realized how far you can push the body. Went through some crazy mud and the 6 false peaks which were just incredible.
Last night’s village and wake up this morning was also like nothing I’ve ever seen before. River crossing today was amazing, floated down the river like a kid. Felt so good. Such a good crew of people all on their own journey and working stuff out as we go. Just proving how far I can push my body and can’t wait to bring that back home.
What I thought tired was back home is absolutely nothing on how I’ve been feeling here. Have adapted so much to the life here, it’s crazy. You realize you don’t need a lot of things you have at home. I promised myself I will release an X-Media masterclass, be a good partner to Katie and even better dad, and do more trips like this. Loved every single minute of today.
Love, Tom
Day 7 – Friday 26th May
Holly molly
Woke fresh and ready
We had a late start today 7:00am
And straight up in the mud we went
It broke me
I’m exhausted, can barely walk, I’ve had my first 2 falls
The tears are falling and I can’t control them
I’ve never been so exhausted and had to push so hard
The hills are steep. We climb in mud for 4 hrs
I can barely write this
Morning tea – I’m broken
Lunch - I pull it together just and push on
The rain comes down heavy, nearly all day
I’m covered in mud and it smells
We walk up hill from 7am till 3:30pm
Then finally, decent down into a deep rainforest where we walk through creeks and rivers for about 2hrs to camp
It’s pouring rain, it’s coming down hard
There’s flash flooding
All I want to do is get in a tent but it’s too wet, so 15 of us pack into a hut
Last night, sleep tight
Love, Brooke
Day 8 – Saturday 27th May
Ua-Ule Creek to Ower's Corner
6:30am - 12pm
Today's the last day. We made it finally.
Had a good sleep. Clothes stink and wet, boots wet and heavy from yesterday's river crossings. Time to push on. This morning was definitely a mental battle, gathering my thoughts and motivation to get this done.
Started with a walk pretty much straight up the river, crossing it a number of times before heading up and up to Imita Ridge. A tough push, again in the sticky slippery mud. Headed down steep and slow to the Goldie River. The highest the guide has seen the water after all the rain yesterday.
Ready to push up the final hill. Walking at the back of the pack this time, it was slow, stop and starting but we made to the top! Tears of joy and exhaustion. Hugs all round.
Can't believe I made it, in one piece - no sore muscles, no cuts or bruises, didn't fall on my butt at all. My body is amazing.
Every day I woke up and pushed on without difficulty. It has blown my mind. Testing how far our bodies and mind will go when we need it.
Buffet dinner with the porters, ate so much. Presentation and thanking them for all they've done for us!
Can't wait to get home. Hug Corey and share the stories.
Love, Bec